Car Tour 5 Cullompton Church

It's been a while since we last did a Car Tour and even longer since I posted Car Tour 4 here.

Here is my usual intro from back in March 2022 when I published my first Car Tour.

I recently bought a small second hand book for £3 called, "South Devon and Dartmoor Car Tours". Get it while you can. Books promoting driving cars will probably soon be illegal. This small book was published in 1995. Often when you are given books like this they prove to be disappointing but in this instance it proved to be a great little find.

Car Tour 5 starts in Cullompton which I would have shown you, but unfortunately back in September 2024 when we did this tour after a long hot drought of a summer, they were digging it up. We did manage to get through the road works though and gained entry to its ancient church which is where we start the tour. We see a lot of things on these tours which all take place in a day, so by their nature these posts are a snapshot (literally) of what we see. The tour took in Cullompton, Tiverton, Chettiscombe, and the Wellington Monument, high on a hill in Somerset, ending in the village of Hemyock. The church in Cullompton is such a treasure house that it takes up this whole first post.

The earliest evidence of occupation in Cullompton is Roman, when a hill fort looked over the current town centre site. In 922 Alfred the Great left the settlement of Columtune to his youngest son Æthelweard.

Nothing weard about that at all. Ethelweard was not a drag queen on the drag queen obsessed BBC, although that character name would be absolutely fabulous for a drag queen, he was in fact a major beneficiary in Alfred's will, receiving numerous estates across southern England, which made him a wealthy landowner. He became a senior councillor in the court of his brother, King Edward the Elder, and witnessed several charters.

It was a wool town, and then later, leather and paper making industries grew.

Before the modern rules for spelling emerged there were 40 different recorded examples of how to spell this place. There is no definitive explanation for the name although it sits on the River Culm. Culm may have derived from the word for knot or tie due to the twisting shape of the river. On the other hand there is a theory that the name derives from St Columba, who we will see at the end of this post.

The church was dedicated at one time to St Mary, who we will also see later. A former vicar, Watkins Grubb wrote a history of the town suggesting that Columba had visited the area, but for at least 500 years it has been St Andrew's church. There was a Saxon Minster here as far back as the 7th century.

The present building dates from 1430 and is in the Perpendicular style. It is set back from the main street but is still a landmark. The tower is of local red sandstone with carved Beer and Ham Hill stone, 100 feet tall with pinnacles rising a further 20 feet. National churches trust.

St Andrew's is a Grade 1 listed building. Records show that building of the current church was active in the early 15th century. The south aisle was begun in 1526 and building was still underway in 1552. The King at that time was Edward VI, son of Henry VIII. He died a year later at the age of 15. His older sister Mary then became Queen. It was a tumultuous time for religion.

Cullompton is generally regarded as one of the finest churches in the West Country.

Devon and Somerset News - Thursday 27 July 1899

During Saturday's terrific thunderstorm one of the pinnacles on Cullompton church tower was struck by lightning and shattered, some of the dislodged masonry being carried a hundred yards. One piece fell into Mrs. Potter's lawn, and another crashed through a cottage window near the vicarage. A window in the organ staircase was demolished and a tree near the cemetery was stripped of its bark. A woman fell down from fright on the pavement, and was carried into an adjacent public house, where she soon recovered.

I imagine that many people of Cullompton, feeling faint, have recovered in the local pub, and probably many more have gone in feeling right as rain and come out feeling faint.

Meanwhile back in 1907 a church warden learned the hard way that, "Those who live in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones." The proverb means that people who are vulnerable to criticism should not criticize others, as their own flaws could be used against them.

Devon and Somerset News - Thursday 25 April 1907

At St. Andrew's Church on Sunday, sermons were preached by the Bishop of Caledonia on behalf of the Church Missionary Society.......... The Rural Dean, on his last visit, spoke of the practice of visitors to Cullompton Church tower cutting their names in the stone. One of the wardens, Mr. Lawrence, suggested they should be fined five shillings. On closer investigation it was found Mr. Lawrence, in days gone by, had himself been an offender, and he was promptly asked to pay up.

Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Thursday 23 December 1920

PARISH CHURCH AND ITS HISTORY.

Mr. M. T. Foster recently gave a lecture at Cullompton Church in connexion with the Wesley Guild.

The earliest mention of a Church at Cullompton was about 1070, A.D., when a Roman Catholic Church was built here in the reign of William the Conqueror. It was placed under the rule of St. Nicholas Priory, in Exeter, which, in its turn, was responsible to Battle Abbey in Sussex. In 1140 the Bishop of St. Nicholas gave the living of Cullompton Church to a priest who resided in the town. There were five prebends attached to the Church - one at Colebrooke, Hineland (Henland, Kentisbeare), Wiever (Weaver), Esse or Ash, and Upton. The priest was responsible for ordinary services, but on feast days, etc., people had to go into Cullompton Church for Mass. A College of Instruction was attached to the Church also responsible to St. Nicholas Priory. In August, 1260, in the reign of Henry III., Bishop Branscombe, of Exeter, laid a tax on Cullompton Church. This was the last record of the old church.

Three very different types of roof in this shot. The nave on the left has a barrel type roof, the south aisle in the middle has a flat timber roof and the Lane aisle further south on the far right is a very grand and show off fan vaulted roof carved in stone. The church is very unusual in having three aisles.

Lane's Aisle or the later south aisle, is dedicated to medieval cloth merchant John Lane who died in 1528. This was the first major addition to the original church, built between 1526 and 1529. Symbols of his trade like shears and ships are scattered around the various carved elements both inside and outside the building.

The aisle is famous for its ornate fan vaulting and may be the last English Chantry built before the Reformation. Built at around the same time as the Moore Aisle (the north aisle) it is possible that there was some vying for attention between the two aisles. As the fan vaulting and window arches do not meet, one theory suggests that the fan vaulting was a later change of plan meant to outdo Moore's wooden ceiling with its ornate gilded and carved bosses.

The interior of Cullompton church is famous for both having medieval wall paintings but also for their being painted over. Originally painted over at the time of the Reformation they have been uncovered and then recovered on at least two documented occasions, that last of which was in 1849. No pictures are available although some sketches were made at some time.

Bedfordshire Times and Independent - Saturday 14 July 1849

WALL PAINTINGS, CULLOMPTON CHURCH .- The Builder says :- "The walls of Cullompton Church, Devon, now being restored, are found, upon partially scraping off the white lining, to be covered interiorly with paintings in distemper. In the north aisle is a figure of St. Christopher, nine feet high, with fishes and a mermaid at his feet, and his green twisted palm staff: other figures, on an equally gigantic scale, are sadly cut up by marble monuments ; one of these is St. Michael weighing departed spirits; a demoniacal horned head is grinning between the cords of the lighter scale. There is another figure with a sort of pontifical crown, and bearing a wand, cruciform at its termination. On the north side of the nave clerestory is St. Clara in an orange - coloured robe, with a mitre terminated by a ball: her name is on a riband beneath. There are other specimens of the colourist's art in foliage adapted to spandrels, which, as well as the dresses of the figures, also the mouldings of the pier arches, are chiefly of an Indian red colour. It is a matter of regret to many that our antiquaries do not unveil more of these figures and their inscriptions, before the decayed plastering is renewed, which it necessarily must be very shortly .- Builder.

Prior to 1849 in 1799 they were also uncovered during building work. At that time an eyewitness account was sent to The Evening Post of January 1st 1801.

"Sir, I accidentally took a walk last year to Collumpton, a large town about 12 miles from this place: it was just at the time that the church was undergoing repair; and being told that the workmen had discovered some paints, curiosity led me to look at them".

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The display of rectors past starts at 1181 which is quite an astounding record. In 1844 the rector was Rev. Lee and he appeared in court after the vicarage and church had been burgled, to identify the recovered items that were stolen. Times were hard and sentences even harder.

Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Saturday 02 March 1844

In the Court of Sessions, yesterday, Wm. Smith and John Halcombe were indicted for breaking into the house of the Rev. J. D. T. Lee, Vicar of Cullompton, on the night of the 4th ult., and stealing some plate, a desk, pencils, wearing apparel, &c. Cullompton church was broken into during the same night, as it is believed by the same persons. The Rev. Mr. Lee deposed to the robbery, and identified the coat, gloves, hats, &c. produced.

Robert Shimell, who had been in custody, (but admitted as evidence for the prosecution,) deposed to pawning the coat at the request of Smith. F. Woolcott produced the two hats which he had taken, one from each of the prisoners. The Jury returned a verdict of Guilty, and the Court sentenced them to be transported, Smith for 10 years, and Halcombe for 15 years .- The Sessions concluded to-day, two Courts for the trial of prisoners having been sitting, presided over by Sir John Duckworth, Bart., and B. Fulford jun., Esq.

Above the nave a gloriously original wagon roof coloured in blue, crimson and gold runs the entire length of the church, through to the chancel, with a carved boss at every intersection. The whole structure rests on brackets with standing angels. The chancel section was recoloured and gilded in 1859, when iron tie rods were inserted by William Froude, a Great Western Railway engineer who thought vibration from the railway could affect the structure.

Mr Froude offered the parishioners to carry out the work on the rest of the roof covering the nave if they would stump up 10% of the cost. Not wanting to fund even part of the job, Mr Froude packed up his tools and left, leaving the chancel roof restored and strengthened and the nave roof untouched to this day.

Here is the original roof of the south aisle which predates the Lane aisle, with some original paint still showing.

This is the rarest item in the church, the 500 year old Golgotha, preserved at the rear of the Lane aisle, and a unique survivor, possibly the only one of its kind left in the world. Essentially a carved wooden beam that once held the figures of Mary and John and a cross, and was positioned above the rood screen. It is carved to represent rocks and skulls and was probably removed from the screen in the time of Edward VI. The socket for the cross or rood is still visible.

Golgotha or the Place of the Skull also known as Calvary, is the hill outside ancient Jerusalem where the crucifixion of Jesus took place according to the New Testament.

It was during the Reformation of Henry VIII and the intervening period between his and the end of Elizabeth I's reigns that many changes occurred in churches in England. Many rood screens and rood lofts were destroyed. Rood lofts have become very rare nationally and rood screens too, although less so in Devon where remoteness to changing rules, decrees, and styles emanating from London meant that many screens or remnants of screens survived.

The medieval rood screen is one of the longest in Devon. The rood screen is late C15 with no Renaissance detailing; 11 bays with open tracery to each, similar in design but not identical, to the aisle window tracery. The coving is complete with 3 tiers of foliage; The brattishing is of 1850 when the colouring was renewed. In architecture, brattishing or brandishing is a decorative cresting which is found at the top of a cornice or screen, panel or parapet. The design often includes leaves or flowers, and the term is particularly associated with Tudor architecture.

The rood loft still shows mortices for the frontal and the Golgotha (which itself supported the Cross and the figures of Mary and John). Above the screen is an arch-braced tie beam designed to support the rood loft, which judging by the size of the Golgotha and the mortices on the rood-loft floor, must have filled the available space in between.

Much of the colour in the nave is probably C18 and early C19, but some of the medieval paintwork may survive;

At the rear of the nave stands the Jacobean Gallery erected in 1637. Along the front are sixteen figures representing the four evangelists and twelve apostles.

There are some small, minor late C18 and early C19 wall tablets; showing records of losses of local youths defending King and Country. Two brothers were to die in different parts of the world fighting the same war. William Colman aged 15, and Augustus Colman aged 21.

The Battle of Genoa was a naval battle fought between French and allied Anglo-Neapolitan forces on 14 March 1795 in the Gulf of Genoa, a large bay in the Ligurian Sea off the coast of the Republic of Genoa, during the French Revolutionary Wars. The French fleet was led by Counter-admiral Pierre Martin and comprised 14 (later 13) ships of the line while the British Royal Navy and Neapolitan fleet, under Vice-Admiral William Hotham mustered 13 ships of the line. The battle ended with a minor British-Neapolitan victory and the capture of two French ships.

In Grenada meanwhile we were still at war with the French.

In 1795, Britain was heavily involved in Grenada due to the outbreak of a major rebellion known as Fédon's Rebellion. Julien Fédon launched a revolt against British rule, coordinating attacks on the towns of Grenville and Gouyave. The fighting was brutal, with many British planters and their families killed. British forces were heavily involved in fighting Fédon's rebels. The conflict is considered one of the largest rebellions in British history and required the deployment of 16 British regiments. The rebellion was ultimately unsuccessful. Fédon was defeated but never captured, and the British suppressed the revolt by June 1796, though at a significant cost.

This monument is erected to perpetuate the Memory of two excellent Youths, who had it pleased God to have spared their Lives, would have been Ornaments to their Professions and their Country.

Added four years later was their brother Francis. It doesn't specify how he was killed but a search for the dragoons and that date suggests that he may have also died in battle.

On July 30, 1799, British dragoons were involved in the Expedition to the Helder (part of the Dutch War), where units like the 7th Light Dragoons saw action and suffered casualties after a retreat.

Henry Brutton was an attorney at law in Cullompton and a mover and shaker also involved with the Great Western Canal project. The Universal British Directory of 1794 lists him under Lawyers and his brother John Brutton under Clergy. It also has a contemporary description of Cullompton.

CULLOMPTON is eleven miles from Exeter, on the great turnpike road to Bath and Bristol. It is seated on a river not far from the sea and is a pretty good town. The market, which is on Saturday, is not very considerable; and there are two fairs annually: one on the first Wednesday in May, and the other on the first Wednesday in November. It is governed by a high constable and four petty constables. The parish church is a noble structure, has four aisles in it, and a curious gilt roof and rood loft; the tower is very handsome and lofty and has a fine peal of eight bells. The trade of the town is principally in the woollen branch, and consists of fine sagathees, serges, duroys and other goods of that description.

Sagathees was a new word to me so I had to look that one up. It seems Sagathy is a fine twilled worsted fabric used formerly for clothes and curtains, similar to serge. The English word probably derives from French which derives from Latin, in relation to a specific garment made from that type of fabric.

Duroy on the other hand will be more familiar in the word Corduroy. A myth arose due to early marketing techniques by traders, that Corduroy derived from the cord du roy or the King's Cord, but in all likelihood, the textile actually takes its name from duroy, a coarse woollen cloth made in England and used predominantly for menswear in the 18th century.

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But I digress.

These two memorial tablets do have some interesting history, as well as being attractive features in the church. The grander of the two was originally placed in memory of his wife Alice, by Henry Brutton in 1807.

He had inscribed on the memorial a beautiful heartfelt tribute to his late wife.

If the practice of every Christian Virtue, that can dignify the Human Character; If pure Benevolence, Simplicity of Manners, Innocence of Heart; If pious and resigned Patience under long and painful illness; If a comprehensive Understanding, sound Judgement, and a correct Taste; If Liberality of Sentiment, Constancy in Attachment, are valuable in thy Estimation, think of her, and learn, that Virtue is the brightest Ornament of Humanity.

Modest Henry left only a small space for his own memorial under that of his wife. We don't know who wrote his tribute because his brother John, the vicar of the church, died only 3 weeks later. His plainer memorial stands on the right.

It wasn't until the following November that Henry's will was proved. The wonders of the internet make that will easily available and it is a fascinating read.

Henry left lump sums to various relatives including assorted nephews who got the not inconsiderable sums of £2000 each, or about £120,000 in today's value. He also left lump sums to several named servants who were clearly much appreciated because while a cousin received £100 his servant John Beer received £200. Another servant Agnes Salter also received £200, about £15,000 in today's value. It was a substantial sum as the national archive calculator advises us that £200 would have purchased 40 cows or equalled 1333 days of skilled work. £100 was to be distributed amongst the poor of the parish.

The rest of his estate was left to his brother, who never lived long enough to receive it.

Glass: 9 good C19 and early C20 windows, including a Morris & Co., 1904; a Drake, in the Lane aisle south, 1882 (and probably Lane aisle east, 1877), and 2 which are probably Clayton & Bell (Lane aisle west, and south VIII).

This beautiful window is in the Lane aisle and shows the four Evangelists, Mathew Mark Luke and John.

Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Tuesday 11 August 1908

MEMORIAL WINDOW AT CULLOMPTON. The central window of the fine south —or "Lane"—aisle Cullompton Church has been filled with stained glass, the gift of Mr. T. Turner, J.P., of Veryards. The window, though large, is treated simply on a suitable scale, each light containing a single life-size figure, of the series comprising those of the four evangelists. On panels beneath the figures are the four beasts, their emblems, the winged man, the bull, lion, and eagle, and the tracery medallions contain their respective initials. Angels in the apex of the window arch hold the inscription: "To Thee all angels cry aloud," and on a riband held by four more across the base of the window is the memorial and dedicatory inscription: "To the Glory of God, and in loving memory of Elizabeth Frances Turner, who died 28th February, 1907, this window is erected by her husband." The work was designed and carried out by Messrs. L. Drake and Sons, of The Close, Exeter.

The east window over the altar in the chancel is dated from 1875. Made by Drake of Exeter. The upper panels show New Testament scenes while the lower panels show the Old Testament. Scenes include the Parable of the Sower and the parable of the Good Shepherd. The window was donated by Henry Hill.

Tiverton Gazette (Mid-Devon Gazette) - Tuesday 02 November 1875

CULLOMPTON.

The large five-light window in the chancel of the fine old parish church has been filled with stained glass, at the expense of Henry Hill, Esq., of London, whose munificence in so many other ways connected with this town is fresh in the memory of the inhabitants. The window consists of ten compartments. The upper five are devoted to New Testament representations, and the lower five to Old Testament subjects. A ribbon running across the bottom of the window bears the following inscription :- "Presented by Henry Hill, of London, born in Cullompton May 16th, 1812." The window was designed and executed by Mr. Drake, of the Cathedral-yard, Exeter.

Western Times - Friday 10 May 1946

CULLOMPTON CHURCH ANNUAL MEETINGS

The annual Vestry and Parochial Church meeting took place in the Church Room, Cullompton on May 2nd. Rev. G. Watkins Grubb (vicar), after welcoming Major Sellwood and Mr. W. T. Brooks among others who had returned from war service, said they had in hand £345 towards a memorial window, and another £50 was needed.

Seven months later and the memorial window almost never happened at all.

Tiverton Gazette (Mid-Devon Gazette) - Tuesday 31 December 1946

The memorial committee appointed by Cullompton Parochial Church Council have issued their report as follows: The majority of the committee are in favour of a window as a memorial, but they are quite prepared to consider any alternatives the parishioners may desire. They unanimously agree that the matter should be laid before the donors and sub-

scribers, and that the vicar shall approach the Diocesan Advisory Board for further guidance. There are three suggestions, either of which might be appropriate: 1, a memorial window; 2, a chapel of remembrance at the east end of Lane's aisle; 3, a new approach to the churchyard.

It was two years later before the window was finally unveiled.

Tiverton Gazette (Mid-Devon Gazette) - Tuesday 09 November 1948

MEMORIAL UNVEILED AT CULLOMPTON

STAINED GLASS WINDOW IN ST. ANDREW'S

A beautiful stained glass window in St. Andrew's Church, Cullompton-a memorial to the 18 men of the parish who gave their lives in the 1939-45 was unveiled on Sunday by the Rev. J. A. Jagoe, chaplain-in-chief to the R.A.F. Situated on the north wall of the church, the window is in magnificent colouring and was designed by Mr. Gerald E. R. Smith, of the A. K. Nicholson Stained Glass Studios, London. The inscription reads: "To the Glory of God. In proud and grateful memory of those of this parish who gave their lives in service of their King and country between the years 1939-45."

Gerald Edward Roberts Smith FMGP (1883-1959) trained at Chester Art School and was apprenticed to Edward R Frampton (c.1848-1928). He joined the A K Nicholson Studio in 1906, and took over running the studio upon Nicholson’s death in 1937. The window features the aforementioned St Columba, St Andrew himself, St Mary, the previous dedicatee of the church and local hero, Alfred the Great.

After visiting the church it was already time for some refreshment so we will start Part Two in the tea room before our drive continues to Tiverton.