Ringmore Church 1

The remarkable tiny church of Ringmore in the South Hams of Devon is a gem of ancient history and stained glass art. When I first visited the church after going to the nearby beach at Ayrmer Cove I had my socks well and truly knocked off. It contains the most unusual interior of any small church I have been in, not the least of which is a wall painting of large mysterious "eyes" looking down at the congregation.

N.B. Not to be confused with St Nicholas church, Ringmore, Shaldon.

Ringmore’s thirteenth-century church, All Hallows, stands at a confluence of lanes at the head of the village. There is evidence in its stonework to show that one part of it - what is now the north transept - is Saxon in origin. Much of the building as it now stands was added to that Saxon chapel in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Ringmore info

The church sits on a natural rise overlooking the small village of Ringmore, and down the small valley to the sea. Below is the beautiful beach of Ayrmer Cove with it's unusual rocks which I feature in a separate post here.

The church of All Hallows is a Grade 2* listed building which is officially considered to be in a "poor" state which is a great shame.

The Church Building of All Hallows, which means ‘all saints’, stands as a spiritual and architectural treasure in the village. From the front porch it gives views down to the sea at Ayrmer Cove, and even out to the Eddystone Lighthouse. The origins of the site as a place of worship go back to Saxon times before the Norman Conquest, and the Yew Tree in the graveyard may date from this period. The present building was built around 1240 and the tower was added in the 14th century. Ringmore.info

It has changed little externally from that time, although the interior was extensively altered, with small pews installed by a Victorian Rector. Church services have been taking place in the church for nearly 800 years.

In 1860, when both church and village were struggling to overcome poverty and decay, a remarkable new rector, Francis Charles Hingeston-Randolph, arrived at All Hallows. In the first three years of his incumbency he restored the church, built a village school, and revitalised the lives of his parishioners.

On the 13th century arched wall dividing the nave and the chancel is the very rare (medieval ?) wall painting of what I describe as a series of eyes, but what are they, and why are they here? Two sources call it medieval while English Heritage call it 19th century which is a little strange. I have found a record stating that it was during the 19th century restoration that this painting was uncovered and that may be where the confusion lies. If it was 19th century it would place it close in time to the well documented Victorian modifications of the interior which we can still clearly see in all the furnishings and woodwork. The painting design seems to bear no relationship to any of the other 19th century changes, and also seems to be far older judging by the condition.

There are obvious stylistic elements in the fittings we know about, like the chandelier, that show similarities with Pugin and the Victorian gothic we are all familiar with in the Houses of Parliament in London and other buildings which were created on a much grander scale like Cardiff Castle by William Burgess. This wall painting though seems completely out of kilter if you see other wall paintings of that time. In this case I think the English Heritage description needs some amending.

There is a similar Victorian Gothic Revival chandelier in Cardiff Castle just visible here, note the period wall paintings.

The banqueting hall, Cardiff Castle.

Here is some medieval wall painting in a church in Bramley, Hampshire, so I will let you make up your own minds.

13th century wall painting, Bramley Church of St James

In 1860, the rector who was about to save the dilapidated church was already much cherished by his flock. A spectacular event took place which it was hoped would be long remembered. So in case it has been forgotten, let me revive it here from an article of the day.

Western Morning News - Tuesday 14 August 1860

A PARISH FESTIVAL AT RINGMORE.

We yesterday briefly noticed that the Village of Ringmore presented an usually gay appearance on Friday last, on the occasion of the return of the Rector, the Rev. Francis Hingeston, with his bride, from their wedding tour in Cornwall. As the circumstances were particularly interesting we now notice them more in detail.

The Rev. F. C. Hingeston was presented to the Rectory in May last, and during his short residence in the parish he has been fortunate enough to conciliate the affection and win the respect and regard of all the parishioners. Accordingly it was thought desirable to celebrate the auspicious occasion of his return in company with his wife to the charge of his flock. It having been ascertained that this would take place on Friday afternoon, it was kept as a general half-holiday throughout the parish...... it is said, such a spectacle has not been witnessed in the South Hams within the memory of man.

At six o'clock the carriage containing the Rector and Mrs. Hingeston, entered the parish of Ringmore at Seven Stones, where it was met by all the farmers and other respectable inhabitants of the parish, including Mr. W. F. Langworthy, the much respected surgeon of Modbury, and two of his sons, all mounted. When after some cheering the following address was read by Mr. H. D. Burney :-

" Madam,-We 'congratulate you in the name of all the parishioners of Ringmore, on the happy event which brings you to dwell among us, and we meet you to-day at the entrance of the glebe lands to receive you to your new home, and to assure you that it is our hearty desire and earnest prayer that you and your husband (our rector) may long live among us, our trusted counsellors and true friends, honoured and respected by us all, we receive you a stranger with all affectionate regard for our rector's sake, who is no stranger to any of us, though he has been among us but a few weeks; and we do hope and believe that the lady of his choice will prove herself worthy of the position she is called to occupy, and will speedily claim our regard and affection for her own sake.........

cont'd...On reaching the church (the two bells of which were being made to do their best to add to the general merriment) the procession halted for a few moments in the midst of a crowd of parishioners. The road was lined on either side, and frequent cheers rent the air. The church-yard was also filled; the ladies waved their handkerchiefs, and bouquets of flowers were thrown by dozens into the carriage. Two large and handsome banners floated from the spire, while flags of a all colours waved from the neighbouring cottages, and a beautifully constructed arch of evergreens, decorated with flags, stretched across the road leading to the rectory.

The whole party then proceeded to the lawn, over the gate of which was another triumphal arch, surmounted by two red ensigns, and crossed by a white banner, on which was inscribed in blue letters "Welcome Home." On arriving underneath the motto, a pause was made, and the cheering renewed. The spectators then divided into two lines, through which the carriages passed, children on each side strewing the path with flowers, and casting them into the carriages. Many inhabitants of the neighbourhood were received in the rectory, where the health of the bride and bridegroom was drunk with many expressions of attachment and good-will. On the lawn a great crowd partook of tea and cake, after which they amused themselves until a late hour. In the course of the day 100 lbs of beef were distributed, supplied by Mr. King, of Modbury.

Long will the day be remembered in Ringmore, fraught as it was with delight and gratification to all, the rector and his lady fully entering into all the enjoyments and amusements of the day.

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My other theory for the paintings of "eyes" is the resemblance to the view down to the sea from the porch of the church. Is it a landscape of sloping hills either side, leading to the sea, with clouds and the sun on the horizon? We'll see more of this view later. Whatever it represents, it is one of two highlights for me.

By 1877 though, the festivities of 1860 seem to have already been forgotten as this fascinating account describes some friction between the rector and his flock, for which I have no background explanation, other than to suspect that the deceased wished to be buried in a long held family plot while being of a non-conformist belief. For more on the non-conformists, check out my post on Ford Independent Chapel near Kingsbridge.

Western Times - Monday 10 December 1877

RINGMORE.

SILENT BURIAL -The Rector of this little village is the Rev. F. C. Hingeston Randolph, whose conduct at a funeral on Thursday last bas been a good deal criticised here. Mr. George Randle, a member of an old and respectable family of the parish, had recently died, and according to custom, arrangements were made with the sexton for the grave and time for the funeral, an intimation being given that according to the deceased's wish the body would not be carried into the church. (Why, we don't know)

On the appointed day the funeral party was met at the churchyard gate by the Rector, who leisurely led the way into the church. On arriving at the church door the friends instructed the bearers to proceed to the grave, where they quietly waited for his reverence.

After some minutes had elapsed he appeared minus his surplice, and, in excited tones, reproached the company for keeping him waiting in the church, saying their conduct was very disgraceful, and that he should wait a quarter of an hour in the church for them to come to a better mind, and if the corpse were not brought in by that time he should leave without conducting any service. He then turned to a gentleman who has preached in a little Baptist Chapel in the village for many years, and said that should he attempt to conduct any services he would immediately summons him. One or more went into the church and endeavoured to persuade him to come to the grave and conduct the service, or to read the service in the church with a few of the party present while the corpse remained at the grave, as the friends were only fulfilling the wish of the deceased, but he persistently refused to do either, even when pressed to comply as an act of grace, saying it was an insult to himself and to the Church, and such a wish was a grievous wrong. In the meantime the friends had in solemn silence deposited the corpse in the grave, and without a word retired from the churchyard, leaving his reverence to chew the cud of reflection.

The tiles are the ubiquitous Victorian church makeover floor covering of choice.

In the early 20th century decorated tin plate sheets were used to line the walls of the nave. Unfortunately this novel feature led to condensation and problems with damp so they were later removed and the walls were rendered with plaster in 1961. This is the sole remaining piece on display. It must have been a colourful sight.

The font is of a Norman design and I have found disputed descriptions of its age. One history dates it to 1170 which seems right to me compared to others I have seen, but other accounts believe it to be made later. It is granite, standing on marble pillars which are clearly and quite commonly of a later date. In many cases the font predates the church itself, as the holiest object in the building, which was often kept and moved into any later building.

The fine wooden font cover with decorative iron strapwork was given in memory of Lt. Frederick Francis Nigel Rees of the Royal Engineers who died in Chakrata India on the 6th of May 1898. Lt. Rees was only promoted to 2nd Lieutenant in 1888 by Queen Victoria. Like many military casualties in India at that time, disease played a major part and he died of "enteritis".

In the Chancel there is a cusped piscina with credence shelf. CREDENCE - A small table or shelf in the wall at one side of the altar. On it are usually placed the cruets, basin, and finger towel. The chalice, paten, corporal, and veil used in the Mass may also be placed there until the Offertory of the Mass.

The chancel screen and key pieces of furniture all have the 19th century marks of classic gothic revival style. These were made in Belgium.

The organ was built by Bevington and Sons and installed in 1863 and commissioned on Christmas Day. This was a major element in the restoration carried out by the rector Francis Charles Hingeston-Randolph.

To the right of the organ is a screen above a doorway that leads through to a side chapel.

This small side chapel is old and may be part of the original Saxon church built before the Norman Conquest by Hecce or Heca who held the manor of Reimore as it was then known. Hecce was a powerful Saxon thane who held the Manor of Reimore, along with several other estates in Devon.

When this chapel served the local people the Domesday Book entry lists 6 villagers, 6 smallholders and 2 slaves. There were 6 ploughlands, 2 Lord's plough teams and 3 men's plough teams, 6 acres of meadow and 2 acres of pasture. There were 67 sheep and the annual value to the new Norman owner in 1066 was £1 10s.

The chapel has its own original piscina. Everything about the chapel is on a small scale.

The official list of rectors dates back to 1257. An interesting feature is the entry for 1658 for Samuel Ford "Intruder - Minister of the Gospel". Hereby lies an interesting tale.

During the Civil War, a large part of which played out in staunch Royalist West Country parishes like Ringmore, the rector William Lane held out with his support for the King even though his cause was lost. Lane trained his parishioners to fight the "Roundheads" of the parliamentary army, and also set up cannon on high ground at Aveton Gifford. Cromwell's troops called him "Bishop Lane the Traytor" and soldiers were sent from Plymouth to arrest him. They arrived by sea, landing at Ayrmer Cove, fighting their way up the valley where they burned down the rectory and took both of Lane's sons prisoner.

In the unusual tower of the church lies a secret room which is not easily accessible, and here Lane hid for three months, while parishioners smuggled food and water to him. He later managed to escape by boat to France. On his later return to England he went to London to petition for the return of his parish position. He had to walk back all of the way, no mean feat in that era when the roads were poor and dangerous. After getting to within forty miles of his old home he succumbed to a deadly water born illness and died. He is buried under the communion table in the church at Alphington, just outside Exeter.

By 1887 and Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee the rector seems to have been back in favour. They don't write newspaper articles like this anymore.

Western Morning News - Friday 24 June 1887

RINGMORE.

The jubilee was kept with great éclat in this little country parish; the day's proceedings commencing with the special service at eleven o'clock, when the rector, Prebendary Randolph, gave an historical address on the "Kings of England." A capital dinner was served at one o'clock in a field close to the church, lent by Mr. Ash, of the Manor farm. Over 200 sat down, and plentiful portions were sent to the few parishioners who were unable to leave their homes. At five o'clock a bountiful tea was discussed.

The sports were a great success - donkey races, sack races, and hurdle and other races for old and young of both sexes, to say nothing of such time-honoured games as kiss-in-the-ring, and any amount of dancing. There was no lack of funds, over £26 having been contributed. At the close of the day's proceedings the rector recommended the people to go out at ten o'clock to the cliff to see the beacon fires, which proved to be a beautiful sight; the high ground commanding the Dartmoor beacons as well the capital fires which were lighted round the coast, and were beautifully reflected in the calm sea.

Randolph greatly interested the people by giving them an account of the uses of these fires in the olden days, and especially by a simple but telling account of the defeat of the famous Armada, which was first attacked by our British seadogs just outside Bigbury Bay, and in full view of the Ringmore cliffs. Mr. Randolph asked the men to lift up to his side on the table a venerable parishioner, still a bale and hearty old man, who was ten years old and more, seventy-seven years ago, when the jubilee of George the Third was kept, which he remembered perfectly; and Mr. John Ryder became at once the local hero of the hour, and was lustily and enthusiastically cheered.

The church bells rang merry peals throughout the day, which was brought to a close: by singing the National Anthem. Great credit is due to those who organised and managed the rejoicings, especially to Miss Agnes Crimp, the treasurer, who was indefatigable in her exertions; Mr. Garland Crimp, of Plymouth, a native of Ringmore, who, with Mr. Ash, managed the sports admirably; Mr. David Triggs, the secretary, and Mr. Granger, of the coastguard station at Challaborough, who lent a grand display of flags; as also did Mr. Secker, of Ringmore- Vean, an old yachtsman. A portion of the money was thoughtfully reserved for those who could not share in the sports and other festivities, and not the slightest accident happened to mar the enjoyment and harmony of a delightful and loyal celebration.

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This memorial, below, commemorates the rector who restored the church in the 1860's. He also had a memorial dedicated to him in Exeter cathedral, which is not something a rector of a small rural parish achieves very often. He was highly regarded for many reasons apart from his architectural expertise.

A ceremony was held in 1913 at the unveiling of the memorial in the cathedral, which was attended by all the great and good.

The Bishop of Malborough, in accepting the memorial on behalf of the Chapter, said when nearly 50 years ago he was sent down to the then fourfold parish of West Alvington, which consisted of that parish, Malborough, South Huish, and South Milton, he was told by Henry of Exeter that he was going to the "Wilderness of the West". Exeter and Plymouth Gazette

Memorial Tablet Exeter Cathedral, Devon and Exeter Gazette

On the south wall of the tower stands this rare 18th century sun dial. The sundial is a simple slate slab with a curved top, fixed flat against the wall. The hour lines and numbering are good quality V-cut work, giving the overall design an "understated elegance". Ringmore historical society

A conservation report of 2003 found it in a poor state with fragments of slate having sheared off. These were preserved in the church, and on my visit the sun dial had been restored.

Western Morning News - Monday 24 November 1919

RINGMORE MEMORIALS.

BISHOP OF EXETER CONDUCTS DEDICATORY SERVICE.

The Bishop of Exeter held a confirmation in All Hallows' Church, Ringmore, on Thursday, and on the same occasion dedicated a window, the gift of the parishioners, to the memory of the men from the parish who fell in the war, and a processional cross, the gift of Mr. Miller and his family, in memory of his son Henry and his friend Alfred Tremlett, who were killed in the same action.

The memorial window is my other highlight and serves as the village War Memorial from the First World War. It has been called the most beautiful War Memorial in Britain and I wouldn't argue with that description. I am going to show it in more detail in Part Two, and in Part Three I will show all of the other stained glass too.

This post covers all but the stained glass in the church which is its glory, and it is unusual to have such a range of windows in such a small rural church. Do check out the rest of the windows in Part Two and Part Three.

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Ringmore is also known as an old smuggling village, situated as it is at the head of a valley leading to Ayrmer Cove and Challaborough beach, which were likely landing spots for contraband.

In common with most Devon coastal villages the nefarious trade of smuggling flourished at one time in the village and the footpath leading from Ayrmer Path to the Cove is still known as Smugglers Lane. The story has it that when the old Rectory was demolished and a new one erected in 1822, traces were found of a secret passage leading to the cellar from outside. Ringmore Historical Society

Oxford Journal - Saturday 20 March 1762

COUNTRY NEWS.

Plymouth, March 9. Monday the 1st Inst. at Night, a Smuggling Sloop belonging to Beer, with Carriage and Swivel Guns, and with 17 Men on board, was forced into Bigbury Bay by a French Privateer: They landed out of her at Ringmore 103 Bags of Tea, many of which they sold to the Smugglers there; and on Wednesday Night last, 15 Men and two Women, with 17 Horses, came, in a riotous Manner, and took away the Remainder. The Women were supposed to be Outlaws in Disguise.

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I will finish Part One with this view of the exterior, showing the difference in ground levels at the back of the church. This is a great example of something I have mentioned before. Over a period of hundreds of years of use, churchyards rise in level, leaving the churches looking like they have been built into an excavated pocket. Repeated burials in churchyards, which were the only option for burial before public cemeteries were established in the 19th century, gradually increased the ground level over centuries.

In 1354 the rural Dean wrote, "The ornaments and altar cloths of the High Altar are lost. The nave is dirty, inadequate and needs rebuilding". Work was carried out and the tower added. After that date there was neglect and gradual deterioration over the centuries, which meant that by the latter part of the 19th century the rector Francis Hingeston Randolph found it "buried in accumulated soil to a depth, in places, of over eight feet". This may be when the banks were dug back to reveal the lower parts of the walls.

This photo is living proof of the age of this church. The church is one of the few in this part of Devon that remains structurally unaltered since the end of the 13th century, and it has not been added to or enlarged since that time.