This is a photo portrait of St Martin's church in Sherford, Devon. I have divided it into two parts for convenience as I had a lot of photos. Part 1 shows the structure and location of the church while Part 2 shows more details from the interior and contents.
Sherford is a very old settlement in the South Hams of Devon on the south coast of England. The area is rich in history and the present church dates from the 14th century onwards. If you have read some of my other pieces you may have seen one about St. Olave's church in Exeter which ties in with this story here at Sherford. I won't repeat the history of Lady Glytha in this piece but you can follow it here. Suffice to say, Lady Glytha who founded St. Olave's in Exeter owned the estate of Sherford. Lady Glytha was the mother of King Harold and she owned everything you can see today from the top of that tower. Lady Glytha gave this estate to St. Olave's and at one time that church probably supplied the vicar to this place.
All of that was a long time before the current church was built though, as a mere 13 years after she founded St Olave's, William the Conqueror arrived at Hastings and killed her son, King Harold, making her, in the process, a non person. All of these lands were then confiscated and occupied by the colonising Normans.
William was so full of guilt about all the death and destruction he had wrought at the Battle of Hastings that he founded Battle Abbey as a penance. The Sherford estates having been confiscated from the dead King's Mother, were then endowed to the Abbey at Battle.
The phone box came along much much later. It is Grade 2 listed by Historic England.
The K6 telephone kiosk in Sherford, Devon, is designated at Grade II for the following principal reasons: *It forms a strong visual relationship with two listed buildings, one of which is a Grade I church * It is a representative example within a village setting of this important C20 industrial design.
DESCRIPTION: The K6 is a standardised design made of cast iron, painted red overall with long horizontal glazing in door and sides and with the crowns situated on the top panels being applied not perforated. There are rectangular white display signs, reading TELEPHONE beneath the shallow-curved roof. It has modernised internal equipment. The kiosk remains intact and in good condition (2009).
Needs a coat of paint, although, unusually it still appears to contain a working telephone. (2023)
In the photo below, note the windows either side of the main door and porch. These are 14th century in the Decorated Style. The Decorated period was a style of Gothic architecture common in England between 1290 and 1350. In this case the top of the Gothic arch is formed into a floral motif that grows from stylised plants. By this period Norman rule was well established. The Normans started building almost as soon as they arrived, the Tower of London being built only twelve years after the conquest. Castles and forts came first and cathedrals and churches followed. Whatever building existed here before the Normans, this replaced it within 200 years. Norman buildings, even small churches like this were meant to impress and control the native population. There may not be a defensive castle nearby but this served the dual purpose. There were several centuries of war still lying ahead on this vulnerable south coast.
Most of what you see today is 14th century with the possible exception of the porch which may have been added in the 15th century.
Sherford has its own leaning tower, sort of. The ancient lych gate finds itself propped up by a stone buttress which serves to make it pretty unique and attractive at the same time.
The lych gate has its own separate Grade 2 listing. It is late 18th to early 19th century.
The view through the gate leads a mile down hill to Sherford's port, Frogmore, today about four times bigger than Sherford itself. The village of Frogmore is today part of the Parish of Frogmore and Sherford and the parish has a population of about 450. Sherford is a mile up hill to protect it from seaborne invasion while Frogmore grew up much later when invasion was less of a threat due to naval developments. As a consequence Frogmore today has no church of its own, this is it. Call it an accident of history.
The church itself is Grade 1 listed. One of the reasons it is special is that it's late 19th to early 20th century restoration was pretty half hearted. This means that it escaped the damage wrought on so many other ancient churches by well meaning Victorian saviours with cash to spare, who commonly ripped out old and worn ancient features and flashed that cash on brand new interiors.
In my research I found this curious and consequently humorous description from a 19th century admirer of the church, and it's modernisation, who may well have been an early founder of "The Dull Men's Club".
Western Times - Saturday 05 April 1879
SHERFORD.
SHERFORD CHURCH.
To the Editor of The Daily Western Times.
Sir, —I am told there are individuals who take great interest in visiting different churches. To such I would draw their attention to a little village church at Sherford, in the vicinity of Kingsbridge, Devon. It is remarkable for one or two peculiarities not often met with in sacred edifices of the present day. Perhaps the first that would attract the stranger's notice would be its set of ventilators. You will naturally ask, "Why?" and no doubt suggest antique decorations ; but no, it isn't that; for as regards form and place you may almost term them rustic and irregular. It is this—the fresh air is admitted in such a manner that overcrowding is effectually prevented; secondly, its coloured walls : the green tints are such exact copies of nature that one wonders, is it artificial or not ? As the explorer proceeded other things of interest would gradually claim his attention. Who are the responsible parties for these original designs ? Perhaps some interested reader will kindly throw a light on the subject through the columns of your valuable paper.—l remain, yours truly, ENQUIRER
I feel that this man, for he must surely have been a he, was just waiting to live long enough to see the advent of Facebook. How many answers he would surely have received to his observations. I am well aware that I can be considered dull at times, but even I had not noticed these ventilators, and I spent an hour photographing the church. I will point out these miraculous ventilators later, as I now find them scattered about in some of my photos.
Here are those "Decorated" windows in more detail. These are either side of the rood stair turret. There is a small door inside leading to this turret, where stairs would have led to the top of the rood loft,which has long ago been removed. The window to the left may have been restored.
Most rood lofts were removed under the instructions of Elizabeth I in a move meant to demystify sacred rituals. Many screens were also removed but the South Hams has a particularly rich supply of survivors.
Much research into the history of Sherford and its people has been done for many years and there will no doubt be more to come. One such history buff was Group Captain Goodman who has a place in that history himself. A former churchwarden, he ultimately wrote a book on a thousand years of Sherford history. I have written about him in a previous post here.
One of his discoveries was that of Eulalia March who was born in Sherford in 1598. She would have gone down in history for this fact alone, during her own burial service she rose from the dead. Teenagers didn't have skateboards or the internet back then so they had to get attention any way they could.
That wasn't enough for Eulalia who didn't want to be just a freakish footnote in history, so she married a tailor from Harberton, had seven children and then started a new life in America in 1639. She had further children, maybe as many as 19 in total which was just as well because she went on to populate a continent. Her descendants included President Grover Cleveland, Silas Wright, Governor of New York, General Ethan Allen who captured Fort Ticonderoga in the American War of Independence and none other than the man of multiple children as well as multiple wives, Brigham Young, founder of the Mormons.
On the 31st. August 1457 Sherford church was dedicated to Saint Martin the celebrated Bishop of Tours. By then Saint Martin was the patron Saint of France and his followers had done much missionary work in the South West of England.
The gates in the porch are early 19th century with iron railings and decorative finials, sympathetically designed and well made.
Unusually, both arcades north and south are near enough identical, including the third arches, in being taller than the rest. The church originally had no arcades and these two higher arches suggest that they may have accessed two transepts that existed before the two arcades were added.
Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Saturday 04 July 1891
The annual flower service and festival for the parishes of Stokenham, Chivelstone, and Sherford took place at Stokenham on Thursday afternoon. Service was held in the parish church, and about 700 children each deposited a bunch of flowers on the altar, to be afterwards packed and forwarded to the Exeter and Plymouth Hospitals. The Rev. C. Finzel (Vicar of the parishes) said the prayers, &c., and the Rev. J. D. Ouvery read the Lesson. An appropriate address was delivered by the Rev. Vincent Young, M.A., Rector of Charleton. The children afterwards had tea, and indulged in the usual games in a field kindly lent by Mr. F. W. Coaker, churchwarden. Tea was also served for visitors by Mrs. Finzel, Mrs. Coaker, and Mrs. Garland, assisted by many willing helpers. Stokenham Brass Band played selections of music during the day and much enhanced the pleasure and enjoyment of the young people.
The north door behind the curtain is not used. To its right is an ogee headed stoup. This would have contained Holy water to bless those entering and leaving the building.
Ogee - An ogee is an object, element, or curve - often seen in architecture and building trades - that has a serpentine- or extended S-shape. Ogees consist of a "double curve", the combination of two semicircular curves or arcs.
Western Morning News - Friday 01 July 1887
SHERFORD
Jubilee celebrations were held under the management of a committee, of which Mr. John Cornish was chairman and Mr. J. Wintle secretary. A procession marched to church having previously, headed by the South Hams Brass Band, been to Broomfield, the residence of Mrs. Cornish, that lady recollecting the jubilee of George the Third. The National Anthem being sung, they were met at the church by the Revs. C. W. Stubbs (vicar), and H. Haden, and the form of prayers appointed for the occasion was read. About 400 persons sat down to dinner, after which the company proceeded to a field belonging to Mr. Lidstone, where a number of prizes were competed for, and a good programme was carried out. Tea was served at five o'clock, the number of visitors being considerably larger than at dinner. The day was brought to a close with a dance in the schoolroom. Mr. Marks, Frogmore, and his two sons, rendered valuable assistance during the duy.
The medieval rood screen remains, although much "mutilated", as much by time as by efforts at restoration. I'll look at this in more detail in Part 2.
Western Morning News - Saturday 24 March 1888
SHERFORD CHURCH RESTORATION
At a meeting of the Vicar and most of the leading parishioners of Sherford, it was unanimously resolved that it was expedient to undertake the restoration of the church, and efforts will be at once made to raise money for that purpose. The church of St. Martin, in the village of Sherford, is within the bounds of the parish of Stokenham, to which it is attached, and is a very ancient structure having been built in the thirteenth century. It contains also some fine examples of decorated perpendicular. The handsome rood screen would well repay careful restoration. The work of restoration is estimated to cost £1,000, (£82,000 today), and it is intended to carry it out in four sections the most pressing to be done first, estimated at a cost of £375 (£31,000). This will consist of a new roof to nave and aisles in red pine, boarded, battened and slated with Delabole slate; carved bosses and moulded sweeps to principals; new lead gutters; rebuilding of columns and arcades, making good all defective stone; cleaning down all the walls internally, and pointing the same in Portland cement ; taking down part of east end and rebuilding, restoring the chancel window, and putting new lead lights in same with cathedral glass. The Rev. C. W. Stubbs, who is at present the vicar, has received a letter with subscription from the Bishop, in which his lordship expresses his pleasure at the work about to be commenced. The amount at present subscribed is small and Sherford being a comparatively small parish external aid will be needed. Towards raising funds a bazaar will be held at Torcross during the summer, under the patronage of Viscount Halifax, Lord William Compton, M.P., Mr. F. B. Mildmay, M.P. and the leading families of the neighbourhood. The Rev. J Dickinson and H. Haden (curates) are energetic in promoting the carrying out of the work, and with the unanimous cooperation of the parishioners it is hoped that the whole of the restoration may soon be accomplished.
The earliest known documented reference to a church at Sherford dates from tax returns paid to Pope Nicholas dating from 1288. So some things never change, the few administrators who were literate were busy collecting taxes.
Although the windows are 14th century this glass is Victorian, described in the extract above as Cathedral Glass.
Totnes Weekly Times - Saturday 18 May 1889
SHERFORD.
On Thursday last, a sale of work and promenade concert were held at the schools in aid of the restoration fund of the Church. In spite of the unfavourable weather there was a good attendance. The stalls were under the charge of Mesdames Cornish, Garland, Nosworthy, and the Misses Fairweather, Wintle, Bird, Giles, and Yabsley. A refreshment stall,which was well patronised, was under the care of Mrs Fairweather and the Misses Jarvis. During the afternoon vocal and instrumental music was most kindly and efficiently rendered by Mrs Finzel, Miss Bird. Mrs Mitchelmore, Mrs Cornish, the members of the choir, and Messrs Rhymes, Hutchings and Luscombe. Captain and Mrs Wadnore gave several of their musical sketches which were much appreciated. In the evening a social dance was held, which was very successful and greatly enjoyed. About £800 is still needed for the restoration of the Church.
There is nothing quite like an efficiently rendered song, I always say.
Through the screen lies the workaday chancel, white limestone altar back, that flash of strong red, and muted Victorian floor tiles, all splashed with pastel light from the east window; a delightful space indeed. Devon Churchland
This is what all the fetes and fundraising events were raising money to pay for.
This carved limestone and red tiled reredos is part of the Victorian renovation, and beautifully made it is too, in its Gothic simplicity.
On the south wall of the chancel is a 14th century trefoil headed piscina. This is where communion vessels and the hands of the priest were washed after Mass. It drained into the church wall to make sure all matter was absorbed into Holy ground.
It is only a partial trefoil here, not to be confused with an ogee. You'll be experts before this is over. In fact I am fast becoming an expert just writing this, so much so that I correctly guessed that the row of four petalled shapes in the reredos, also seen here, must be quatrefoils, which turned out to be correct.
Trefoil - 'Trefoil' is a term in Gothic architecture given to the ornamental foliation or cusping introduced in the heads of window-lights, tracery, and panellings, in which the centre takes the form of a three-lobed leaf (formed from three partially overlapping circles).
Back in 1869 a bazaar was held to raise money for a new organ. £40 was raised, which doesn't sound like a lot until you update the value by 150 years and find it is the equivalent of £2500.
This is the view from the chancel, showing the plain reverse of the screen and the later, replaced, barrel vaulted roof, in red pine.
This window in the chancel is later, 15th century, Perpendicular in style but still organic and plant like.
Ventilator alert below. Next to the screen on the right is the small door that would have originally been used to access the rood loft, via the stairs in the turret.
In 1370 one of the local manors at Malston was licensed to have its own oratory on condition they still worshipped at the church. Sherford church was a sister church to Stokenham, as it still is today. In 1409 the manor of Keynedon was also licensed to have its own chapel. By 1421 Malston was licensed to have a chapel.
The screens between the chancel and side chapels are called parclose screens. These have undergone some restoration.
A parclose screen is a screen or railing used to enclose or separate-off a chantry chapel, tomb or manorial chapel, from public areas of a church, for example from the nave or chancel.
Major ventilator alert. What a beauty!
In 1857 it was commonly thought that attending church would keep little boys out of trouble, but it seems that this was not always the case.
Western Times - Saturday 12 September 1857
Apple Stealing -
Three boys, named Bartlett, Damerel, and Hannaford, were charged with stealing apples from Mr. Honeywill, of Keneton, in the parish of Sherford. It appears that on Sunday Bartlett went into the orchard, and the other two were outside throwing stones at the apples. Mr. Honeywill's hind saw them, and they ran away. Mr. Peek said that, if they had kept holy the Sabbath day, and attended a place of worship, this perhaps would not have happened. Bartlett said they had then returned from Sherford Church. The mothers of the boys were present, and stated that they gave them good advice. The magistrates fined the boys, "or parents," 1s each and expenses - Damerel's being 7s 6d, and the other two 5s 6d each.
Apple stealing, or scrumping was a serious crime and the fine with expenses amounted to £35 in today's money. I should think Master Damerel got a warm welcome from Mum after that when he got home. This use of the word hind was completely new to me, as I had hitherto thought it was just another name for a deer, but it seems it also an archaic or rustic word meaning a farm assistant or sometimes a bailiff.
It seems the Honeywills were quite a target for thieves of fruit in general. Only twenty or so years earlier and the sentence for this crime left quite a bitter taste in the mouth.
North Devon Journal - Thursday 04 August 1831
DEVON ASSIZES -
Three Months.— Elizabeth Trist, 17, for stealing at different times, the ingredients necessary for the manufacture of a gooseberry pie, the property of her master Mr. A. Honeywill, of Sherford.
Even by the standards of the day the sentence seems harsh, as in the same assizes Joseph Bowerman got only four months for actual assault of a policeman in the execution of his duty. We will never know if Elizabeth got as far as making or eating the pie, I sort of hope she did.
Here is that red pine and the aforementioned decorated bosses. Bosses can often be found in the ceilings of buildings, particularly at the keystones at the intersections of a rib vault. In Gothic architecture, such roof bosses (or ceiling bosses) are often intricately carved with foliage, heraldic devices or other decorations. Many feature animals, birds, or human figures or faces, sometimes realistic, but often Grotesque: the Green Man is a frequent subject.
Here is further proof of 14th century skills, with local stone carved into octagonal pillars and probably as it was built, unplastered, to show off the full effect of the design. Of course it may be that this look is the result of the stripping back of walls and repointing mentioned in the article above.
The belfry contains six bells, all in good order. The heaviest, the tenor, dates from 1738 and is inscribed: "I to the church the living call and to the grave do summon all". It's a cheery little ditty for sure. The bells were rehung in 1913. The bell ringers still oil their joints at The Globe Inn in Frogmore.
Exeter Flying Post - Thursday 07 July 1859
THOMAS STEER, 20, smith, was charged with stealing bell metal, the property of the churchwardens of the parish of Sherford. Mr. Lopes prosecuted; Mr. Carter defended the prisoner. One of the five bells of Sherford church was accidentally broken into three pieces, fifty-three years ago. Two of the pieces were placed in the bell loft, and the third in a cupboard near the pulpit. In May, Kendall, the sexton, had occasion to go to the cupboard, when he discovered that the metal had been taken away. On inquiries being made it was ascertained that the prisoner had sold it. The prisoner made no concealment of the matter, and stated that the metal was given him to sell by a man named West. The police had searched for West, but had been unable to apprehend him. Mr. Carter said there was no case to go to the jury as no recent possession could be proved, and it had been held over and over again that if possession could not be sworn to within three months, the prisoner should not be called upon to given any account as to by what means the property came into his possession.— The Chairman agreed with Mr. Carter, and ordered the jury to acquit the prisoner.
The most recent historic development at the church was the evacuation of the village during the second world war when most of the village was occupied by the American forces making their preparations for the D-Day landings. Church valuables and furnishings including the screen were removed and stored for safety and the church commandeered to service American troops. In Part 2 , following soon we will see some of those furnishings and other details.
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